Galapagos Islands On A Budget: Land Based Trip and Don’t Think Twice
If you want to visit the Galapagos on a budget, do a land based trip and don’t think twice about it! Booking a Galapagos trip is a tedious and often expensive process, but it does not have to be. There are many websites that offer advice but sifting through it all can made your head spin. Here you will find simple, straightforward advice on how to plan your Galapagos trip of a lifetime but also a few tips helpful tips you likely won’t appreciate until you later! For the most comprehensive guide possible, supplement this guide with Practical Wanderlust’s more comprehensive complete Galapagos guide.
I am sure you have read by now that there are two ways to see the Galapagos Islands: 1) water based cruise or 2) land based self guided experience with tours.
I highly recommend a longer, land based trip. This allows you to build your own schedule and self select the activities you are most interested at the same time saving large amounts of money. We spent 10 days/9 nights in the Galapagos, visited three islands, did two day tours and spent $1285/person, including flights. We incorporated the Galapagos into a larger, six month trip throughout South America (check out this post for more info about our motivations to travel). This may sound expensive (which it is!) but not when compared paying minimum $2000 for a 4 night cruise, not including flights.
Helpful Tips To Review Prior To/During Your Trip:
- you can arrive to the Galapagos only by flight from Guayaquil or Quito
- you will need ample cash while in the Galapagos ($200-500 at all times depending on the number of day tours you plan on doing)
- there are multiple ATMs on Santa Cruz Island and despite what you read, there is an ATM on Isabella Island (on Escalesias Street)
- you will be required to pay $20 USD in cash for a Transit Control Card at the airport prior to departure – hold on to the card as you will need to present it upon arrival into the Galapagos as well as your departure from the Galapagos
- you will be required to pay a $100 USD in cash Galapagos National Park entrance fee upon arrival
- speed boat rides between islands generally cost $30 USD/person each way but some islands and companies offer last minute deals for $25 USD
- you will need to pay $0.50-1 USD for a water taxi to actually reach each island (with the exception of San Cristobal) so keep spare change on you
- accommodation depends on your comfort level and expectations – a combination of hostel and airbnb stays is what we found to provide the best combination of value, location and comfort
- keep a copy of a boat schedule saved on your phone, which you will find below
Boat Schedule
| From | To | Departure Time | Arrival Time |
| Santa Cruz | San Cristobal | 7:00 / 07:00 AM | 9:15 / 09:15 AM |
| Santa Cruz | San Cristobal | 2:00 / 14:00 PM | 4:30 / 16:30 PM |
| Santa Cruz | Isabela | 7:00 / 07:00 AM | 9:30 / 09:30 AM |
| Santa Cruz | Isabela | 2:00 / 14:00 PM | 4:15-30 / 16:15-30 PM |
| Isabela | Santa Cruz | 6:00 / 06:00 AM | 8:00 / 08:00 AM |
| Isabela | Santa Cruz | 3:00 / 15:00 PM | 5:15 / 17:15 PM |
| San Cristobal | Santa Cruz | 7:00 / 07:00 AM | 9:30 / 09:30 AM |
| San Cristobal | Santa Cruz | 3:00 / 15:00 PM | 5:30 / 17:30 PM |
Helpful Tips on Navigating the Guayaquil Airport:
When you arrive to domestic departures, things can be a bit confusing. First, go the far left window that says “Galapagos.” Here you will receive your Transit Control Card, which will cost $20 USD. Although we weren’t asked, you should be prepared to provide proof of: round trip flight (Important note: you are not allowed to stay more than 60 days/year in the Galapagos), passport (valid for 6+ months), proof of accommodation and travel insurance.
You will then move to your right to have your carry-on and check bags scanned by x-ray. There is discussion about what you can and can not bring into the Galapagos. We brought granola, peanuts and peanut butter and had no issue.
Continue to move right to receive your boarding pass and to weigh your check bags, as you normally would.
Move right one last time to security, which proceeds as normal.
Santa Cruz Island
You may read not so positive things about this island but do not let the negative reviews scare you. We loved Santa Cruz Island! There are so many great free options here. The Baltra airport is here so you will likely be flying into Santa Cruz anyway.
We spent four days here and felt it was an appropriate amount of time.
Helpful Tips on Navigating the Baltra Airport on Santa Cruz:
After walking from the tarmac into the airport, you will wait in line. Once you reach the front of the line, the first agent will ask for your passport, stamp it and move you along to the second agent. You will pay the second agent the $100 USD in cash Galapagos entrance fee. A lady at the end of the desk will quickly collect $5 USD for a bus ticket that will transport you from the airport to the dock (5-10 minute ride). Buying this ticket is mandatory unless you have private transport arranged. After finishing this somewhat hectic process, you will pick up your bags behind the desk. Here a German Shepard walked on top of everyone’s bags supposedly looking for explosives, which was quite interesting to watch!
Once you reach the dock, you will take a quick ferry ride to the other side of the island for ~$1 USD. Once you have your bags, you will have the option to take a bus (which you should see right away) for $5 USD or a taxi (white Toyota Hilux trucks) for $15-20 depending on your negotiating ability to Puerto Ayora approximately 45 minutes away.
Do:
Darwin Research Center – spend day one orienting yourself to the Galapagos. Drop off your bags and stroll here from town to educate yourself on the history of the islands. Check out some Galapagos turtles while you’re at it.
Tortuga Bay – Rated by Trip Advisor as one of the Best Beaches in the World, here you can do a self guided snorkel and hang out with marine iguanas on the beach.
Las Grietas – The prettiest snorkel we did in the Galapagos. Also self guided! Get there early as it can get crowded.
Watch sharks and sea lions along pier at night – The pier is illuminated at night and it is amazing how much you can see beneath the water!
Bike to El Chato Tortoise Reserve – Rent bikes from Bike & Smile for $15 USD for full day (you will receive a voucher for a free beer at Santa Cruz Brewery in return). Ask where to catch bus to El Chato ($1 USD, 25 minute ride), bike ~20 minutes to reserve, pay $5 USD entrance fee (which includes Galapagos coffee and tea) and wander around the quiet reserve spending as much time observing the tortoises as you would like. When you heart is content and your camera is full of photos, hop back on your bike and head back to Puerto Ayora (~1 hour 20 minutes).
Coffee at 1835 Coffee Lab – It is difficult to find quality coffee in the Galapagos but the Coffee Lab delivers! Grab a delicious cup and watch the International Barista competition on the tv over top the bar.
Super Crazy Happy Hour – Walk along the boardwalk of town and you should see the “Super Crazy Happy Hour” sign. Somewhat cheesy I know, but their drinks deliver. Here you get 3 mojitos (or drink of the day) for $10 USD and they are strong! This was the best value for a happy hour in the Galapagos we could find.
Dinner on Charles Binford Street – here you will find kiosk after kiosk serving freshly caught lobster, tuna and multiple other types of fish. Regardless of which place you settle on, you can not go wrong here. With that being said, check out Casa de Vinicio if you can. I had delicious tuna steaks here two nights in a row for ~$10-12 USD each time!
Isabella Island
Isabella Island is approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes from Santa Cruz Island by boat (tickets $30 USD one way). The water can be choppy so take your motion sickness medication beforehand! Don’t ask questions, just do it.
Upon arrival in Isabella, you have to take a water taxi ($1 USD/person) from the boat to the dock. Once upon land, you will have to pay $10 USD/person to enter the island. The fees get annoying and do add up.
Puerto Villamil is Isabella’s main town and is very walkable so walking to your hotel or hostel should not be a problem. There are however, plenty of taxis available which can shuttle you to exactly where you need to go for likely no more than $5-7 USD. The town has a more traditional beach town feel to it. There are numerous beach front bars and restaurants that offer up amazing views of the sunset.
We spent four days here and felt it was an appropriate amount of time.
Do:
Los Tuneles Tour ($120 USD/person for half day of snorkeling & lunch) – This was by far the highlight of our Galapagos trip. We followed the recommendations of Practical Wanderlust and booked through Pahoehoe and they did not disappoint! Here we spotted Nazca boobies and blue footed boobies and swam with white tipped and black tipped sharks, sea turtles, manta rays, marine eels, coral reef snakes and the ever evasive seahorse.
Hike Sierra Negra ($40 USD/person for 5 hour hike, lunch provided) – Sierra Negra is the world’s second largest caldera volcano and had erupted just two months prior to our visit! The hike allows you to appreciate the diverse landscape of Isabella and the Galapagos in general. The viewpoint at the end of the hike is quite nice. Also booked this tour through Pahoehoe and had an exceptional guide.
Drinks at Atardercer – drink tasty mojitos (2 x $10 USD) while lounging in a hammock while watching the sunset, yes please!
Don’t Do:
Dinner at Booby Trap – Overpriced, poor quality food. Save your money and eat elsewhere.
San Cristobal Island
In order to get to San Cristobal, you have to fly in directly or take a boat from Santa Cruz. The boats leave from Santa Cruz at 2 pm and takes approximately 1 hour and 40 minutes to arrive and costs $30 USD/person one way.
Each of the three islands we visited had a different aesthetic and feel. San Cristobal allowed for easy access to sea lions, which line the shore in town. Here you can watch mothers nurse baby sea lions and male sea lions exert their dominance (don’t get too close to the males!). Multiple bars and restaurants line the town and face the ocean and sea lions, which makes for quite a relaxing happy hour drink.
We spent two days here and felt would could have spent another two days to take advantage of all the island has to offer.
Do:
Kicker Rock Tour ($120 USD/person for half day of snorkeling & lunch) – Kicker Rock is an enormous rock in the middle of the ocean that has some of the most diverse wildlife in the world. We booked our tour with Wreck Bay, who I would not necessarily recommend, based solely on the fact our tour guide was inexperienced and disinterested. This should not reflect on the company itself as all guides are likely not this way. The water is deep here and therefore cold. Be sure you have a wetsuit. We snorkeled and were able to swim in a large school of fish, get close to multiple sea turtles and observe the magnificent corral lining the rock. Many people dive here in hopes of seeing hammerhead sharks but the few people from our group who did didn’t see any.
Dinner at Pollos a la Brasera Frammer – This hole-in-the-wall roasted chicken joint is not to be missed! This was a recommendation from our host and we ate here two nights in a row. There are only two options on the menu. Take the Menu del Dia and enjoy some of the most tasty chicken you will ever taste. You’re welcome.
In Summary
The Galapagos Islands are a unique, magical place. A trip here is often expensive but doesn’t have to be. I hope this guide provides you valuable, straightforward recommendations on how best to do the Galapagos on a budget. Wishing you the trip of a lifetime!
